Before you start
Condition and maintenance history should carry more weight than mileage or fresh cosmetic work. Inspect the vehicle in daylight, start it from cold where possible and check the paperwork before negotiating.
The checks that matter most
- Structural corrosion around chassis rails, outriggers, jacking points and sills
- Front valance, windscreen surrounds and cargo floors for hidden repairs
- Evidence of quality restoration rather than thick filler and fresh underseal
- Originality, provenance and conversion quality because these materially affect value
For expensive classics, a specialist inspection is money well spent. Restoration costs can quickly dwarf mechanical repair costs.
Test-drive checklist
- Starts cleanly from cold with no unexpected warning lights
- Pulls smoothly without excessive smoke, hesitation or unusual noises
- Gearbox and clutch operate correctly; automatic changes are smooth where fitted
- Steering tracks properly and suspension has no heavy knocking
- Brakes are progressive and the vehicle remains stable under braking
- Temperature remains stable and there are no obvious fluid leaks
Paperwork
Look for service invoices, timing-belt or gearbox servicing evidence where relevant, MOT history, conversion documentation and receipts for major repairs. A folder of credible history is often worth more than a low mileage claim on its own.
Walk away when
Structural corrosion, serious overheating history, unexplained warning lights, poor-quality structural repairs, questionable conversion wiring or a seller refusing a reasonable inspection can all turn a bargain into a costly project.